1. Kangaroo with Two Wheels
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A short hop from Adelaide, Kangaroo Island offers remoteness and adventure to thrill the soul. Gavin Wright reports
Kangaroo Island is Australia’s third largest offshore island (after Tassie and Melville). It’s over 150km long and 50km wide, but has a population of only about 4000 and is blessed with large, rugged areas still in their natural, wild state.
Up until now, it hasn’t been a major destination for cyclists, but its long, straight, almost traffic-free roads and tracks – even its peripheral undulations – make for a superb off-road bicycle holiday.
The route we've mapped out is nearly 400km over six days. Although clearly not for the part-time pedaller, anyone with experience of bicycle touring should be able to acquit themselves with pride.
Cycling on the many kilometres of dirt road you'll rarely see anyone, but you will meet with the wildlife. Kangaroo Island kangaroos have evolved separately from mainland ones – they're slightly smaller, darker and have longer hair. Fine-featured tammar wallabies, now rare elsewhere, are prolific here. And on any part of the island you’re likely to spot sea eagles circling overhead.
This may be a wilderness adventure, but you don't have to do without. Being an island there is always fish on the menu and the local speciality is marron, the prized freshwater crayfish. There are now nearly 30 vineyards on Kangaroo Island and about 15 wineries. On your last day of riding, you’ll pass by Sunset Winery just six kilometres from Penneshaw. Pop in for a drop before you pedal over the hill to the ferry (the 1km winery track detour actually takes the pinch out of the climb).
This itinerary takes you to perhaps the island’s two most spectacular points. At Stokes Bay, on the north coast, walk through the rock ‘tunnel’ to the huge, shallow rock-pool, perfect for swimming, and the breathtaking beach beyond.
The clever folk at Sydney University calculated Vivonne Bay, on the south coast, to be the best beach in Australia, but you don’t have to be an egghead to appreciate its constant good surf, pure white sand and spectacular outlook.
If you're exploring farther afield, then bear in mind the heritage lighthouse cottage accommodation at either end of the island. Apart from the amazing locations, these can sleep quite large numbers of people.
We recommend a mountain bike for this trip: most of it is off-road and although normally sound, bad weather can disrupt your surface. You will also need to plan ahead for food and drink every day as there may be no supplies between stops. The weather can change quickly, so you should have warm and waterproof gear to hand. Take a puncture repair kit and essential tools.
But if you go prepared, then whether you're cycling in solitude or touring with an entourage, Kangaroo Island is a pleasure to ride and will leave you with memories of landscapes and coastlines to treasure forever.
More information
Tour Kangaroo Island
www.tourkangarooisland.com.au; for events, attractions, food and wine
Island Beehive
www.island-beehive.com.au, (08) 8553 0080, on the way into Kingscote; Kangaroo Island is the only place in the world left with a pure Ligurian bee colony: half-hourly tours and plenty of honey
Seal Bay Conservation Park
(turn south 13km east of Vivonne Bay), www.parks.sa.gov.au/parks; guided tours through the colony of Australian sea lions
Cape Borda and Cape Willoughby Lightstation accommodation
Dept for Environment and Heritage, http://www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/visitor/kipass.html (for accommodation fees and facilities), (08) 8559 7235 (to book)
Deadly cinnamon fungus
will not kill you, but causes disease and death to many native plant species. Stay out of sticky soil and clean your tyres and bike boots regularly
Bike SA
Bicycle South Australia is using this route (with some wholly on-road options) as its fabulous Annual Tour, 4th-11th October.
If you want to join them, be quick, and as a Bicycle Coalition member you'll get a discount.
Check out www.bikesa.asn.au (tours) for details and links to Bikely maps for all daily sections.
Penneshaw to American River (76km)
The first ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw is the Sealion. It leaves daily at 9am and takes 45 minutes. This does give you time for the day’s ride, but there are places to stay overnight in Penneshaw if your bicycle is an early starter.
Turn left off the boat, right up Middle Terrace then left on Howard Drive. After 400m, turn left at Willoughby Rd. Eschew all turnings until you reach the lighthouse (28km). The day’s biggest climb (180m) is the first three kilometres of Willoughby Rd.
Turn back from the lighthouse for 7km then left into Willson River Rd for a long downhill run. After 11km turn left into East West Rd.
Turn left again when you reach the coast at Hog Bay Rd (56km). At 68km take the track on the right (Muston Rd) and follow the edge of the water reserve. At 73km turn right at the road for American River.
American River to Parndana (63km)
Head back out on American River Rd. Cross Hog Bay Rd and take the main track, Three Chain Rd, for 22km. Turn left at Woods Rd then after 200m right at Two Seagers Rd. After reaching Murray Lagoon (36km) turn left to continue on Two Seagers Rd. Cycle to the crossroads at Gregors Rd (49km) and turn right, directly north. Turn left when you reach the T-junction with East West Hwy (54km), then fork right into Airport Rd (57km) and ride into Parndana.
Parndana to Western KI Caravan Park (94km)
Cycle out on Smith (or Jones) St to Playford Hwy and turn left. At 4½km turn right onto Stokes Bay Rd and head directly north for 15km to the steep descent to the sea. At North Coast Rd turn right and ride 600m down to the beach (and the Rock Pool Café), then turn around and head back west.
Getting out of Snelling Beach (39km) is real King-of-the-Mountain stuff, 4km of steepness followed by a gentle climb for over 20km: continue west and south on North Coast Rd, turn right at the first T-junction, then left at the next onto Western River Rd (52km).
Turn right back at Playford Hwy (60km) and left at West End Hwy (67km) and you'll stop climbing when you’re well into Flinders Chase National Park.
There follows over 20km of blessed, unrelenting descent. Turn left at the end junction onto South Coast Rd and the campsite is just 3km along on your left.
Western KI to Vivonne Bay (35km)
Carry on for today's mostly downhill route southeast along South Coast Rd – all the way to Vivonne Bay.
Vivonne Bay to Kingscote (65km)
Head northeast along South Coast Rd for 34km, peaking your climb at 26km. Turn left when you meet Woods Rd then left again after 1km at Stirlings Rd. Turn right at the T-junction with Birchmore Rd (40km). At 52km turn right at Playford Hwy, which takes you into Kingscote.
Kingscote to Penneshaw (61km)
Take in the sights of Kingscote cycling along the Esplanade, Chapman Tce and Brownlow Rd. Turn left at 5km and Brownlow Rd turns into Third St. Turn right at NW Rd, over onto Burdon Dr, left at 7km onto Playford Hwy and left again at 8½km onto Hog Bay Rd. Turn left at 14km to continue on Hog Bay Rd, which takes you all the way to Penneshaw. A fairly flat day except for a 150m climb (and descent) in the last six kilometres.
Getting there
Kangaroo Island is located 103km southwest of Adelaide.
Sealink runs three ferries a day between Cape Jervis and Penneshaw and connecting buses to and from Adelaide: www.sealink.com.au for fares and timetables.
Accommodation
Cliff, Sky and Stone are the names of the secluded houses that make Lifetime Private Retreats, overlooking Snelling Beach, ‘dangerously romantic’. Classy and possibly the island’s most remarkable places to stay: www.life-time.com.au, (08) 8559 2248
In Penneshaw there are holiday cottages, a hotel and a YHA hostel.
American River has a motel, a holiday village, cottages and B+Bs.
Parndana has cabins, homesteads and 8km from town is Timber Creek Lodge, with a 3-bedroom house and hostel accommodation: www.timbercreeklodge.com, (08) 8559 5000
Western KI Caravan Park has real log cabins, koalas and camping: www.westernki.com.au, (08) 8559 7201
Kangaroo Island council has a basic campground at Vivonne Bay (also at Stokes Bay and American River). It's down towards the jetty; no pre-booking, just pay the Iron Ranger.
Kingscote has the Ozone Hotel, a motel and much more.
For full details of accommodation all over the island: www.tourkangarooisland.com.au/accommodation