Bicycle Network Victoria: Ride On magazine

I have failed Fiji coup leader George Speight to thank for my discovery of Samoa. Yes, after George’s antics, my family fun holiday in Fiji was in tatters. With the very valuable time off work already booked, good old Ansett came to the rescue. For the same price they offered me either Samoa or Tonga. After a quick look at the atlas, Samoa was further away and a more expensive flight for nothing - just the scrooge in me coming out.

Contrary to the cleared west coast of Fiji, landing in Samoa was always how I imagined a Pacific Island would be. Thick rainforests and craggy mountains rising up from coral atolls. It was hard to believe that people lived in there.

The capital Apia on the main island of Upulo is a bustling little place. About as big as Shepparton, with colorful little shops and markets, it seems to be permanently in peak hour. The architecture and atmosphere in the restaurant area is straight out of a 19th century south seas outpost, culminating in the

legendary Aggie Gray’s Hotel where the reception area, bungalows (named after Hollywood legends), pool and bar are where James Michener obviously received material for his novels.

But it was the big island of Savaii that inspired my imagination. One can see how the creators of King Kong got the inspiration for Skull Island. A cloud shrouded volcanic ridge rises straight out of the Pacific Ocean. Its slopes covered in a wilderness Rainforest. The coast of the island is punctuated by small villages. They survive precariously on one smooth bitumen road that circumnavigates the island, along a coastline that is often overrun by lava flows. There is virtually no traffic! As a veteran of many Great Victorian Bike Rides, Savaii seemed to me to be cycling Nirvana.

Circa 2008. After years of discussion, and stops and go’s amongst cycling friends, the Great Savaii Bike ride was off the ground.

The first task was getting our bikes through officialdom. Like Australia, Samoa has extremely strict quarantine laws and the bikes had to be spotless. All bikes had to be unpacked and inspected on arrival. We soon learned though that the normally laid back officers were far more interested in the makeup of the bikes rather than any biological intruders. Checking over gearings, asking questions on alloys etc, that we were happy to answer (some of my friends had just spent thousands on their pride and joys), it was a new experience for them - no one brings bikes to Samoa!

Our trip to Savaii from the main island of Samoa – Upolo, was an adventure in itself. Instead of the usual comfortable ferry, we were shuttled aboard a small cargo “ship”. We seemed to strike a freak winter storm in the normal dry season. Those lucky enough sheltered in hot and humid shipping containers. The others braved the wet and wild elements. Disembarking at the unofficial capital Salelolgo, the weather did not let up, however cycling in the rain when the temperature is still 30 is not that uncomfortable. Apart from cycling through flooded causeways. As we headed north it seemed every spectacular beach had an accompanying bar/restaurant. Naturally in this weather these establishments were welcome respites whether for a coffee or for the local drop Vailima. After 30 odd km cycling, taking nearly 6 hours, we arrive soaked to the skin, our panniers drowned with our spare clothes, at our accommodation – Jolean Beach fales.

Staying in fales in Samoa is an experience to be recommended. The sea breeze sweeps into the thatched rooms that are located in the sand just a metre or two above high tide. The gentle lapping of the water is as good as any sleeping tablet. Most fales are small family operations with shared facilities. Freshly caught fish, just picked local fruit and vegetables done buffet style is included in the fare, and apart from being a fraction of the price of a resort, you get to share the meals with the family members – you are in fact a guest of their village.

Our second day saw the weather clear but after the previous day's rain, the humidity became near unbearable. As the road hugged the beautiful coastline, it was necessary to keep cycling just to keep the air flowing. Along the way small children not yet of school age, ran out to cheer these crazy Falangi’s (white people) on bikes. Locals just stared in amazement, while the passengers in the brightly colored open air buses, doof doofing to their disco music, tooted and waved. Tonight our accommodation was again in paradise at the Lagoto Beach Fales.

We left the white sand beaches the next day and headed inland to avoid lava flows from the 1905 Mt Matavanu volcanic eruptions, which had virtually destroyed the north side of the island. The previous coastal flats gave way to short but very sharp hills. As we headed inland, we entered the rainforests, the seabreeze disappeared, the temperature and humidity climbed rapidly, and conversely the villages, and our water supply disappeared. My bike and myself began to rapidly deteriorate, the running repairs meaning I only had one gear – high! Even for someone who is accustomed to cycling in hot temperatures, this became unbearable and with no water left and badly dehydrated, up went the white flag.

We were indeed fortunate that one of the local chiefs, Waikato, had thought our cycling a humourous folly and had commenced to follow us around Savaii. An impromptu support crew! Waikato’s role in Savaii is to negotiate outcomes with villages. There are no California Lawyers here. To resolve an issue the chiefs sit on the floor of the main village fale and talk, often with their eyebrows. If the dispute is not resolved then they talk again. The mood of the meeting is determined by the eyebrows, obviously once all eyebrows are in synch the issue is resolved.

Safely in the back of Waikatos’ 4WD, we could enjoy the spectacular Savaii scenery. From our vantage point high above the coastline, you could see where the emerald green of the rainforest was reclaiming the land from the pitch black of the lava fields, abruptly ending at the cobalt blue of the ocean. Arriving at Vaisala Beach Hotel was heaven sent. Soon the salt and sweat from the day's cycling was gently dissolving the warm waters of the coral lagoon that fronts the hotel. And we had airconditioning!

Vaisala Beach and its hotel are a story in themselves. For some reason the best places in the world always seem to be in the most remote spots. Vaisala Beach is the most remote place on the most remote island in one of the most remote countries in the world. From the balcony of the bar that perches over the spectacular white sand and turquoise water, the coconut clad hills follow the coastline endlessly into the Pacific Ocean.

Unfortunately like all of Savaii, getting a cold beer proved very difficult. The biggest fridge on Savaii proved to be nothing more than a display cabinet, the locals couldn’t see what the problem was, but all was soon forgiven when the choice of our inclusive main meal was either spaghetti bolognaise or fresh lobster. Decisions, decisions!

Leaving this little piece of paradise, the road swung inland and south. The first 5 kilometres was a particularly nasty climb. It is short and sharp with steep pinches, not the sort of ride that one appreciates after a night of warm beer. The views of course were stunning! At the top, the road strikes the west coast of Savaii. This is Samoa’s mini version of the Great Ocean Road. The black cliffs rise dramatically from a very different Pacific Ocean. Places such as Lover’s Leap provide great views of the Pacific throwing itself against the cliffs in a violent frenzy. But at least by now the climbing was finally over and we literally flew along the mighty downhills to our overnight accommodation at Satuiatua Beach Fales.

These are the deluxe Fales of Savaii! For starters it has proper beds (not that there was much wrong with the mattresses on the thatched floors of the other Fales), and secondly you can stand up in them. The beach is protected by a coral reef a couple of hundred metres out. This is one of the great secret surfing spots of the world and all of the while the sound of the crashing surf is forever in the background.

Our arrival is prewarned, a New Zealand couple had been complaining of a group of cyclists turning the normal quiet village fales into a party, while the “local” German diving instructor greeted us with his Arnold Schwaznagger accent, “You must be those crazy Aussie Cyclists everyone on the island is talking about”.

The Hotel is run by the Aggie Grey of Savaii – Mata. She seems to be doing a million things at once, but then seems to find time to sit around and entertain the guests with tales of the island. We learn that she is related to our hosts at Hennie’s Sports Bar in Apia, and our savior Waikato. Her adopted son Lee typifies

the classic Samoan. Young, fit and with a permanent smile, one minute he is serving lunch, then drinks. He disappears out in the lagoon and and returns with a bucket of fresh tuna. Within an hour sushi is served in a powerful ginger marinade that makes the eyes water, clears the nose and dramatically increases the rate of Vailima consumption. It is here after a few more Vailimas that we meet one of the local characters, and Mata’s friend, Uncle Bob. Uncle Bob is from the era of the German ownership of Samoa and is the last of the great white plantation owners. We are entertained with singing, tales of wartime Samoa and the history of Savaii. Many Vailima’s are consumed with Mata and Uncle Bob, and consequently it’s a foggy start to our last day. While it’s an early start for us, Lee has already managed to break a surfboard out in the mountainous surf, and arrange our breakfast.

We are on schedule for our last day as Waikato must return to Apia. We didn’t think the word “must” existed in Samoa, but it does when the chiefs wife wants to know why he has spent so long on Savaii! Apart from a few bumps at the start, it’s a pretty flat run and the last day is perfect cycling weather for Samoa, cool cloudy and drizzling.

On our ride today gone are the peaceful beaches and coral lagoons of the east and north coast of Savaii, here the Pacific crashes into the black rocky outcrops of the south coast. Over one hill we get a view of massive plumes of water jetting hundreds of feet into the air, like a pod of giant whales - the Taga Blowholes are an impressive sight.  At certain parts of the coast the waves wash right across the roads, keeping us on our guard as we cycle. Here we meet some local cyclists who are as amazed to meet us, as we are to meet them. For once people are actually admiring my 20 year old repco racer, what amazes me though is how these locals can ride these hills with fixed wheels!

We arrive at our final destination - Salelologo. The town is the trading post of Savaii, markets, shops, banks, every establishment with very odd hours, even a night club, and we get to stay in the only motel on Savaii. Finally off the bikes, we settle back in the beautiful gardens of the restaurant behind our Motel overlooking the Apolima straight that separates Savaii from Upolo.

Almost on cue after 2 days of rain and drizzle, the sun breaks through the clouds just before sunset. The late sun lights the forested slopes of the volcanic hills in a brilliant green. The dark storm clouds glow with gold, reds and oranges it’s almost like the clouds are erupting like the nearby volcanoes. With Vailima in hand it is a great way to finish cycling in paradise.

Organising Cycling around Savaii – accommodation in family run beach fales, and transfers to and from Apia for the ferry crossing (including bicycles) can be organized by Hennies Sports Bar in Apia. Hennies also has budget accommodation and is a 5 minute walk into the centre of Apia.